Eddie Aikau: socorrismo y olas gigantes en Waimea Bay

EDDIE AIKAU Por Marc Fontrodona Socorrismo y olas gigantes en Waimea Bay

[{"selector":"#anim-d3df5b6e-04ef-4125-934b-ba84e15dc51c","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 157.00800%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-d11b4daa-a268-4990-bce0-811d9dbaf074 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] Un socorrista local en activo ha ganado la 10ª edición del Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, el campeonato de surf de olas grandes más prestigioso del mundo.

[{"selector":"#anim-3d204a0c-1266-437e-937e-a871f1a1f448","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 172.31330%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-4ef53c76-d1ce-4b62-8144-78058d8d51c3 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(-40.16366935788034%, 0, 0)","translate3d(0%, 0, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] Las condiciones no se habían dado en 7 años. Algunos dicen que fueron las mejores de la historia del campeonato. ¡Las olas eran de 10 metros de altura!

[{"selector":"#anim-9b97093a-44c7-4303-89e8-fdb462f53fb7","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 172.31330%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-3e30d4de-a0ae-41ac-9766-98970f9c81e9 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] El surfista hawaiano había recibido permiso de su supervisor para participar en un día complicado para el socorrismo. Hubo más de 60 rescates.

[{"selector":"#anim-7537d26c-8ac9-4c9d-a5ee-a0164006f29d","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 157.00800%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-084d3221-aa3e-4b28-b7ed-7c19f137b663 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] Shepardson ganó la final con un 89 sobre 90, inscribiendo su nombre con letras de oro -y por sorpresa- en los libros de historia del surf de olas grandes.

[{"selector":"#anim-56e779cb-5120-46bf-a272-f08feb9577ff","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 172.31330%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-c800a6db-c484-415a-ad69-4c8a9c2b1dc3 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] Su nombre ya figura junto a las otras 9 leyendas que han ganado el Eddie Aikau BIg Wave Invitational:

[{"selector":"#anim-928bb179-3407-43df-a8c4-3d009331f7de","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(-115.55555%, 0px, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-1b5d887b-eb8a-4322-83f9-458039ae2a4c [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 7.760782355151471e-15%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] 1986 - Denton Miyamura 1987 - Clyde Aikau 1990 - Keone Downing 1999 - Noah Johnson 2001 - Ross Clarke-Jones 2002 - Kelly Slater 2004 - Bruce Irons 2009 - Greg Long 2016 - John John Florence 2023 - Luke Shepardson

[{"selector":"#anim-e2e71ac6-1fca-4207-8ac7-36a2ff02f0d9","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 172.31330%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-8eea64d2-a4f0-41e9-902b-af88fad8a446 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] “Nunca seré tan bueno como Eddie. Fue alguien que admiré y me inspiró. Tengo que volver a la torre a asegurarme de que acaba bien el día”.

[{"selector":"#anim-631aaf65-9cd5-4d37-b6eb-4f3cbff393b9","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 172.31330%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-938a1586-9ac2-4a30-afb8-91aba3ef03c3 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] El campeonato se celebra desde 1984 en memoria de Eddie Aikau, el primer socorrista de la historia de Waimea Bay y surfista de olas grandes.

[{"selector":"#anim-ebe52a6e-50f0-4d31-adc0-2bb4b72f7df8","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 157.00800%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-f563951d-b28a-4cde-ba5e-241f58634f1c [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] Nacido en 1946 en Maui. Empezó a surfear a los 11. A los 13 su familia se traslada a Honolulu (Oahu). Con 16 entra a trabajar en una fábrica de conservas de piña.

[{"selector":"#anim-06ef3471-17e3-47e1-899f-2cda78d55b3f","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 157.00800%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-db53f1c3-5fa6-4e72-b408-664f1e0b30e4 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] En el 66 empieza a trabajar de socorrista. Con 25 (1971) se convierte en el primer socorrista de Waimea. Dicen que rescató a más de 500 personas y nunca perdió a nadie.

[{"selector":"#anim-ade7f3d0-9d35-4c83-8320-4384c7816f9c","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 157.00800%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-45afb07f-18a9-457b-b1f3-ddc19a915846 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] Muere en 1978 (31 años), en una expedición de un mes y 2.500 millas náuticas para rememorar tradiciones hawaianas y restablecer una ruta de los polinesios.

[{"selector":"#anim-274897c9-c547-449e-834d-ba891265f910","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 172.31330%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-c2ab6e3c-da02-4e1e-bcfb-363ab24ceb93 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] El barco se hundió entre olas gigantes a 19km de la orilla. Eddie afirmó que podía llegar a la playa remando con su tabla de surf y pedir ayuda.

[{"selector":"#anim-99508c7c-1e38-4feb-b30a-2bb54e8eb0d4","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0px, 157.00800%, 0)","translate3d(0px, 0px, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":4000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.6, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-6e1171b6-4658-46af-9197-f25cd9b6b1a9 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["scale(0.8620689655172413)","scale(1)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"forwards"}] Al poco, los guardacostas rescataron al resto de la tripulación. Se hizo la mayor búsqueda por mar y aire en la historia de Hawái. No le encontraron. El héroe se convirtió en mito.

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