Shane Dorian: leyenda viejoven del surf de olas gigantes

Por Marc Fontrodona SHANE DORIAN LA LEYENDA VIEJOVEN DEL SURF DE OLAS GRANDES

[{"selector":"#anim-fabcd8cb-7073-42be-b424-9daf7d9f3099 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-7a941050-bfd3-4523-8ae4-5b2c1fb1b473","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Shane Dorian nació en 1972 en Hawái y allí forjó su camino hacia la élite mundial del surf.

[{"selector":"#anim-e8b43e9a-acbc-45b0-b2f3-6c6bdd180af3 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-5d570f4c-5490-4ab4-bf8a-7f6bb51dd522","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] En los 90 irrumpió en el Championship Tour, donde estuvo varios años y consiguió victorias y respeto.

[{"selector":"#anim-00676d3a-fb64-4234-af84-fd19f821029b [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-90c10c63-c329-4e9f-ba53-a0a6fa9035fb","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Pero su legado no se construyó allí, sino a principios de los 2000, cuando dejó el circuito por el surf de olas grandes.

[{"selector":"#anim-1c3d6140-1978-4991-83ee-5667c638e18f [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-761ae64b-fd7f-44c4-b77e-3df23fef1277","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Fue pionero en el big wave surfing en Jaws (Maui), surfeando algunas de las olas más grandes de la historia.

[{"selector":"#anim-feb3a6d4-759c-4549-8d02-5ec1424f253e [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-20dd59d3-671a-4056-80f7-c070d318ffab","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Ganó el circuito mundial de olas grandes y también premios del surf XXL como el Ride of the Year.

[{"selector":"#anim-8f1199a4-5e89-4959-8504-38f5c46bbb7c [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-18f7c478-4acc-4017-b812-69a41071a5ec","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Su influencia sigue hoy. Trabaja con surfistas en Pipeline o con el oro en los Juegos Olímpicos del 2024, en Teahupo’o.

[{"selector":"#anim-e7c1e176-5e58-46d6-9eea-dc465cf8002a [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-1c41e8bd-277c-46e2-983e-8ec6cc60ab8d","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Tras varias lesiones, se sometió a un tratamiento con células madre en Tijuana y se focalizó en el entrenamiento.

[{"selector":"#anim-9e417b98-039b-4156-b630-96e1a00a9dfa [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-f0cf171c-df49-496e-83d2-72ea82fa39cc","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Tras dos años entrenando al máximo asegura que “mi cuerpo está mejor que en los últimos 15 años”.

[{"selector":"#anim-bdd763e1-8f73-45d5-9027-5a50969f68b9 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-a0755c58-0397-4045-8c75-f3f2dd7c618e","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Actualmente tiene tres trabajos: es surfista profesional (sigue con sponsors), desarrollo inmobiliario en Miami y coach de fitness online con clientes globales.

[{"selector":"#anim-29201532-0614-42c3-adbe-2223ce58f240 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(0, 0.12345709277238391%, 0)","translate3d(0, 0%, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-fe7cb21c-0b47-4750-8b64-565fc01c41c8","keyframes":{"opacity":[0,1]},"delay":0,"duration":2000,"easing":"cubic-bezier(0.4, 0.4, 0.0, 1)","fill":"both"}] Y tiene claro el consejo que hay que dar a los jóvenes: “Hazlo porque no puedes dejar de pensar en surfear y disfruta del camino”. Él lo ha hecho.

[{"selector":"#anim-1bab9be1-93d5-4194-bf44-b8d8e86471f7","keyframes":[{"offset":0,"transform":"translate3d(0, -251.22073%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(.5, 0, 1, 1)"},{"offset":0.29,"transform":"translate3d(0, 0%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(0, 0, .5, 1)"},{"offset":0.45,"transform":"translate3d(0, -70.643269276%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(.5, 0, 1, 1)"},{"offset":0.61,"transform":"translate3d(0, 0%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(0, 0, .5, 1)"},{"offset":0.71,"transform":"translate3d(0, -24.016701788000002%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(.5, 0, 1, 1)"},{"offset":0.8,"transform":"translate3d(0, 0%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(0, 0, .5, 1)"},{"offset":0.85,"transform":"translate3d(0, -9.018824207%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(.5, 0, 1, 1)"},{"offset":0.92,"transform":"translate3d(0, 0%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(0, 0, .5, 1)"},{"offset":0.96,"transform":"translate3d(0, -3.919043388%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(.5, 0, 1, 1)"},{"offset":1,"transform":"translate3d(0, 0%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(0, 0, .5, 1)"}],"delay":2000,"duration":1600,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-f462cd67-b4bb-4afc-be5f-e80040ab949b","keyframes":[{"offset":0,"transform":"translate3d(0, -234.92065%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(.5, 0, 1, 1)"},{"offset":0.29,"transform":"translate3d(0, 0%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(0, 0, .5, 1)"},{"offset":0.45,"transform":"translate3d(0, -66.05968678%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(.5, 0, 1, 1)"},{"offset":0.61,"transform":"translate3d(0, 0%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(0, 0, .5, 1)"},{"offset":0.71,"transform":"translate3d(0, -22.458414140000002%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(.5, 0, 1, 1)"},{"offset":0.8,"transform":"translate3d(0, 0%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(0, 0, .5, 1)"},{"offset":0.85,"transform":"translate3d(0, -8.433651335%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(.5, 0, 1, 1)"},{"offset":0.92,"transform":"translate3d(0, 0%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(0, 0, .5, 1)"},{"offset":0.96,"transform":"translate3d(0, -3.6647621399999997%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(.5, 0, 1, 1)"},{"offset":1,"transform":"translate3d(0, 0%, 0)","easing":"cubic-bezier(0, 0, .5, 1)"}],"delay":0,"duration":1600,"fill":"both"}] [{"selector":"#anim-48fe988f-8ac2-413f-a64c-95a08afff7d0 [data-leaf-element=\"true\"]","keyframes":{"transform":["translate3d(62.499999711319%, 0, 0)","translate3d(0%, 0, 0)"]},"delay":0,"duration":6000,"fill":"both"}] Sigue durante 2026 las stories de

{{title}}

{{title}}